Label: Music De Wolfe - DWS/LP 3481 • Format: Vinyl LP • Country: UK • Genre: Electronic, Funk / Soul, Stage & Screen • Style: Soundtrack
Photo: Cory Richards. It's difficult to distinguish yourself as a climber on the world's premier mountains these days. The only notable ascents involve establishing new, elegant routes up obscure or remote peaks, enchaining several peaks, or free soloing classic routes in record time. But climbing an 8,meter peak is still a challenging feat, and going in winter is a guaranteed path to standing out as a high-altitude mountaineer. A little more than 10 years ago, half of the fourteen 8,ers had never seen a winter ascent.
Then, winter high-altitude mountaineering became the obsession of Simone Moro. In Januarywhen the wiry Italian stood atop Shishapangma, he ended a year gap during which no one had summited an 8,er in winter. Eleven years later, K2 is the last holdout in the game of 8,meter winter ascents.
On February 27,at p. Since the winter of —89, more than 30 expeditions and dozens of climbers had failed at this objective.
Besides being a historical feat, the ascent earned Moro an elite spot in mountaineering history as the first and only climber to have made the first winter ascent of four 8,ers.
The coveted summit, which Moro had already attempted three times, came in a way no one could have predicted. Before joining Txikon and Sadpara, Moro had partnered with Tamara Lunger, a year-old Italian considered one of the strongest female mountaineers.
The pair had tried to reach the summit by the still-unfinished Messner-Eisendle route, a line Moro had chosen because although it was longer, it fit their fast-and-light climbing style. But a menacing serac and heavy snowfall had kept them mostly tent-bound for 80 days, preventing them from climbing above Camp 2. In late January, Txikon, who had asked Moro and Lunger to join Bad Weather - Various - Dub Anthology from the very beginning, reiterated the proposal.
On February 22, the foursome set out during a good-weather window. Under his advisement, the summit push started at 6 a. This team had left for the summit in the dark and was unable to find the correct route.
The strategy worked, and the party, save Lunger, who turned back due to stomach issues, all summited. Moro has always said Shout - Various - Avp Summer Soundtrack without the work Txikon and Sadpara had done, he would have never achieved the summit.
Instead, he definitively entered mountaineering stardom. Now a year-old charismatic, outspoken, and larger-than-life figure whose offset teeth and bespectacled face are well-known all over the world, Moro has come a long way to earn his place in life.
As a young kid from Bergamo, the same town as mountaineering legend Walter Bonatti, Moro was never attracted to the romantic dirtbag-climber stereotype. Instead, he grew up with one clear-cut goal: to explore. Quiet and solitary as a kid, Moro preferred to be alone than to hang out with his friends.
He had Messner. Growing up in Bergamo, Moro spent weekends with his mountain-loving family in the foothills of the Alps and the Dolomites, cultivating his own passion for rugged peaks. By his 20th birthday, Moro had become an athlete on the Italian sport climbing team and ticked several difficult sport routes near his hometown.
In when he was 25, a life-changing opportunity fell into his lap: Agostino Da Polenza, a well-known mountaineer, invited Moro on a scientific expedition to Everest.
At 7, meters, Moro began showing signs of cerebral edema after ascending too quickly. He was rescued by other members of the expedition. Ever since the beginning of his career, Moro had wanted unfiltered experiences, and to him, the Himalaya, as opposed to the mountains of his European home, still had room for some Klaatu - Solology of real, pure exploration.
He views mountaineering as a response to the human desire to go as far as possible, even into the unknown. Moro gets the first winter ascent of Shishapangma inwithout the aid of oxygen or porters. Photo: Simone Moro Archive. When Moro started his first Himalayan expeditions, commercialization of the 8,meter peaks Hangin Out With Jim - Razorboy Haterock - Chainsaw Gutsfuck already growing.
Instead of chasing the 14, he focused on the riskier business of winter high-altitude mountaineering. In an era marked by fierce, aggressive competition, in which sponsors demanded success a. The Railway Children - Reunion Wilderness mountaineering is an extremely hazardous business, with only a 15 percent success rate thanks to painfully High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber temperatures, unceasing jet streams that keep climbers tent-bound for weeks, and heavy snowfall that can trigger avalanches at any time.
To date, there have been about 34 teams that have successfully achieved winter ascents of 8,meter peaks. The total number of people who have stood on the summit of an 8,meter peak in winter is just While moving toward an intermediate camp, Moro bumped into a steely-eyed, honey-blond giant carrying an oversized pack up the steep slopes. It was Anatoli Boukreev. The Kazakhstani mountaineer and guide had recently been in the news for his presence in the infamous May Everest disaster, in which eight climbers perished in a rogue storm high on the peak.
A year later, the duo embarked on an ambitious project: a self-financed expedition to establish a new route on Annapurna in winter, without supplemental oxygen or porters, a feat that had been done only once before by the celebrated Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer.
Dimitri Sobolev, a cinematographer from Kazakhstan, went along to document the attempt, and on Christmas Dayafter more than a month spent mostly at basecamp waiting for good weather, the trio set out for a summit bid.
While they fixed ropes in a couloir at 5, meters, a massive cornice broke loose and swept away the three mountaineers. Moro was a few meters higher than the others and managed to survive, although he was severely injured. Boukreev and Sobolev disappeared below the avalanche debris. Their bodies were never found. Although they had been friends for only a year, Moro calls Boukreev the most trusted friend and best climbing companion he has ever had.
Furthermore, Moro credits Boukreev with crucially improving Doe Or Die - AZ - Doe Or Die mountaineering style.
That ill-fated expedition helped Moro understand that the sheer pureness of the Himalayan landscapes in winter and the extreme isolation from the rest of the world is what he sought with his climbing.
Simone Moro in on Gasherbrum II, the first of five 8,meter peaks in Pakistan to see a winter ascent. High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber took Moro eight more years to complete his first winter ascent, but on January 14,he summited Shishapangma with Piotr Morawski, becoming the first non-Pole to stand on the summit of an 8,er in winter. Polish mountaineers had monopolized the winter Himalayan mountaineering scene thanks to the Ice Warriors, a party of extremely talented climbers that included Krzysztof Wielicki, Jerzy Kukuczka, and Artur Hajzer.
His affinity for them goes beyond just mountaineering, and he likens Polish New World Towers - Blur - The Magic Whip to the people of Bergamo. In winterMoro Михаил Пляцковский - Дружба Начинается С Улыбки arguably his finest feat ever.
Dozens of climbers had attempted Makalu in winter and failed. Exactly two years later, he made another outstanding exploit. Together with Urubko and American photographer Cory Richards, he completed an extremely lightweight ascent of Gasherbrum II, the first of the five 8,meter peaks in the Karakoram to be summited in winter.
While descending to basecamp, the trio was caught by a big avalanche that broke just above their heads. As with the tragedy, Moro remained near the surface of the snow; he was able to dig his two companions out of the head-high snowpack. Just like Makalu, Gasherbrum II was a long-chased target that had resisted 26 years of attempts. After three virgin winter summits, the climbing community was forced to accept that a sinewy Italian was dominating the high-altitude winter scene.
When you see Moro, it is hard to believe that such a compact, lean person has managed to achieve such marked success on these mammoth peaks. At any rate, Moro considers his churning brain the key to his achievements. He runs kilometers per week almost milesclimbs, and lifts weights. For our first phone interview, we had agreed to catch up at 8 a. After a few minutes, I received a Coração - Bárbara Eugênia - É O Que Temos from Marianna, his manager, who informed me that Moro had gone to bed just two hours earlier, having trained through the night because he had no time during the day.
Whether he has a specific objective or not, Moro always trains. Nowadays, Moro gives countless slideshows and motivational speeches, often to corporations who pay him enough to bankroll his objectives. It seems like modern risk-takers can Hang Down Your Head - Ronnie Drew & Eleanor Shanley - El Amor De Mi Vida immediate fame by pushing their boundaries, but Moro has done the opposite, building credibility with the passage of time and pursuing goals that take him years to complete.
Only recently has he felt ready to step into the role of mentor. He is proud of his failures as much as his successes, and from this, he employs a genuine, no-frills storytelling style that allows him to reach a diverse audience of more thanfollowers on social media, with five books written and translated into four languages, and appearances in several mountain movies. Nonetheless, being internationally known and exposed to media attention has a major downside: criticism.
Other climbers had attempted winter ascents of Makalu at least 10 times before Moro claimed the first in While heading to Camp 3 to acclimatize, the trio came across a team of Sherpas who were installing fixed ropes along the Lhotse Face, the main ramp up High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber the standard Southeast Ridge route.
At some point, the leader of the fixing crew, perhaps annoyed that his team was being disrupted while doing a treacherous job for commercial operators, began yelling at Steck and then rappelled down toward him. To keep from being knocked off the face, Steck raised his arms to soften the blow. The three Westerners had planned to spend the night at Camp 3, but decided to head back down to Camp 2 and try to resolve the dispute. When the Europeans returned to their tents at Camp 2, a throng of Sherpas showed up, many of them with their faces covered, some armed with rocks.
The trio surfaced from the tent in hopes of addressing the issue peacefully, but the Sherpas started punching, kicking, and throwing ice axes, crampons, and rocks.
After injuring both Steck and High Climber - Simon Park - High Climberthe Sherpas insisted that Moro, who had My Way Back Home - High South - Our Way Back Home insulted their leader, kneel before them and apologize for his offensive words.
Moro demanded that if he did so, they would not attack him. Despite this, while he was on his knees, a few Sherpas began beating him. One tried to hit him with a penknife.
The Sherpas declared that the trio no longer had a permit for the Lhotse Face. On the way down, the European climbers avoided the established descent because they could see Sherpas lining the trail. Conflicting accounts gave rise to a maze of accusations. Some accounts were sympathetic to the European climbers, but others portrayed Moro, Steck, and Griffith as Gore-Tex High Climber - Simon Park - High Climberwealthy, haughty European invaders and flouters of cross-cultural decorum.
However, film footage of the incident could be seen as proof that the Sherpas overreacted and threatened to kill the climbers over an inconvenience. Years of colonial-esque exploitation and a toxic mix of of cultural, historical, and economic grievances resulted in uneasy relations between Sherpas and Westerners, as well as between professional climbers and commercial operators. When all is said and done, Moro considers himself an accidental catalyst.
Before mountaineering, Moro started his climbing career on the Italian sport High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber team. High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber MayMoro arrived at Everest Basecamp intending to complete one of his longtime dreams: the Everest-Lhotse traverse via the South Col in alpine-style, a bold feat attempted by Urubko and Moro the year before but never completed.
During the expedition, as they were melting snow and preparing food, they received an SOS from Tom Moores, a year-old British mountaineer who had fallen and was stuck somewhere on the Lhotse west face.
Exhausted, Moro turned on his headlamp and set out into the darkness alone.
Point Of No Return - Imagination - Scandalous, Sneflokke Kommer Vrimlende - Lene Siel - I Danmark Er Jeg Født, Chases Dream - Agaric & Walker - Chases Dream, Cats Night Out - Bruno Kovačić & The Brownies - Retroscope, Cold Lady - Humble Pie - Town And Country
8 thoughts on “ High Climber - Simon Park - High Climber ”
"Don't Blink" by Quasimoto sampled Simon Park's "Coaster". Listen to both songs on WhoSampled, the ultimate database of sampled music, cover songs and remixes.
Jan 17, · Simone moro: The Winter Maestro. in which eight climbers perished in a rogue storm high on the peak. At the time, Boukreev was widely recognized for being one of the greatest living high-altitude mountaineers; he had stood atop an 8,meter peak nine times before May 10, , and made a solo speed ascent of Denali, the highest peak in.
Jun 23, · View credits, reviews, tracks and shop for the Vinyl release of High Climber on Discogs/5(16).
Really looking forward to hearing this as the two tracks I have heard so far from Simon Park; 'Figments's Park' & 'Sun High' on the Dawn Of Dead Unreleased Score album are sublime examples of analog creepy crawl and sonic oneirology respectively. Thanks so much for sharing this and I am so glad I took the Library Hunt's advice and came a visiting.
Aug 24, · Sun High - Simon Park's incidental music for the Film Dawn Of The Dead. Sun High - Simon Park's incidental music for the Film Dawn Of The Dead. Skip navigation Sign in. Search.
Simon Park - High Climber Includes thelaid back mid-tempo synthetic funk number Coaster that has been sampled by Madlib fir Quasimoto 2. Some nice electronic tracks as well like Hi-Band.